Chapter 18: CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

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[AUTHOR'S NOTE: I apologize for the totally mixed up formatting of this chapter. For reasons known only to Booksie's computer, the tools for formatting on Booksie's website don't work on this chapter and this chapter ONLY. I used exactly the same tools for Chapters 17 and 19 with no problems. I have tried everything I could think of to get it to format properly, but no good. If any of you have
suggestions as to how I can correct the formatting, I would greatly appreciate them. At any rate, I hope you enjoy reading this chapter in spite of its lousy formatting. -- kw]

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

Finding Route 56 was a little confusing because I had to leave Route 55 as it converged with Route 32 and then stay on Route 32 where Route 55 turned south. But finally I saw the sign for Route 56.

We're getting there now, little buddy! And away form those damn businessmen.”

Be-Beep!

I was really glad when we putted on past the southwestern edge of Kochi's suburbs because I was still angry about those businessmen.

But Route 56 kept us away from the coastline for much of the way. And although it did follow a river part of the way, it wasn't anywhere near as spectacular as the rivers I had followed on my way to Shirakawa.

"Kind of a disappointment so far, huh, little buddy?”

Beeep!

"Well, things should get better as we get closer to Ashizuri-misaki."

Be-Beep!

And they did somewhat. A few sections did take us along the coastline. But still there wasn't all that much to see.

"It keeps taking us through towns. I want to see the coastline and the countryside, damn it.”

Beeep!

"And so many of these towns are named Tosa something or other How are you supposed to keep them straight?. . . . Hey now I remember! The Intro to my guidebook says Shikoku means four countries or clan domains. And the country for the Tosa clan was the southernmost. Well, at least we're learning a bit of the history of Shikoku.”

Be-Beep!

A sign read: ASHIZURI-MISAKI with an arrow pointing away from Route 56. It led us away from Route 56 and down Route 321. First Route 321 led us through mountains and then along the coast. “Well, things are looking better. And we'll soon be nearing Ashizuri-misaki.That should be a lot better.”

Be-Beep!

Then I saw another sign for Ashizuri-misaki that led us onto a prefectural road going farther south.“Only about 20 kilometers now, little buddy!”

Be-Beep!

The road was a lot narrower than Route 321. And the few cars and minibusses traveling on it carried people clad in all white. “More pilgrims doing the ohenro."

Beeep!

As we neared a blind curve I slowed down and carefully drove us around it. Sure enough, I almost ran into the hindmost of another line of hiking pilgrims all dressed in white, round straw hats with handwritten Japanese script, long staffs in their hands, bells jingling at their tops.

"They're heading for Kongofukuji temple. That's number thirty eight. They must really be devout, little buddy. It's 87 kilometers from number thirty seven and my guidebook says it's a thirty hour hike.”

Beeep!

I sped up as we passed the head of the line. But not too fast. Just as I thought, we kept passing more and more pilgrims that I had to slow down for. And I then spied the cobblestone stair entranceway to the temple all the pilgrims were clambering up.

Hah, little buddy. Looks like we're doing our own ohenro by motorcycle after all!"

Be-Beep!

And just after we passed it, I saw the sign “WELCOME TO ASHIZURI-MISAKI the southernmost tip of Shikoku.”

Well, we're here, little buddy! I hope it's as good or maybe even better than Muroto-misaki.”

ep!

It wasn't.

After I'd parked my cub in the separate parking space for bicycles and motorcycles, I went out to the overlook. There were more tourists here than the overlook at Muroto-misaki. But the view here was nowhere near as dynamic. I pulled out my pocket camera, dutifully snapped and thumbed a few pictures and went back to my cub.

"Something's missing here, little buddy. But what?” I said as I got back on and kicked it to life.

Beeep!

" . . . Hey, now I've got it! No crashing waves! And no blustering wind! Remember how the wind slowed us almost to a halt before we could reach Muroto-misakiHere, I didn't even have to slam the camera lens cover shut to protect it from the ocean spray. Well, it's getting late. Time to find a place to stay tonight. But where?”

It didn't take long, thank God

As soon as the prefectural road on the east side of the peninsula that had led us down to Ashizuri-misaki returned us back up the west side to Route 321, we found ourselves coming into the town of Tosa-shimizu. “Another Tosa, what else!”

Beeep!

"Well, let's see what it's like”

We drove through the whole town in ten minutes. “Hmm. Judging by all the stoplights we saw in downtown, I'm guessing this town in larger than I thought. And it seems to have two waterfronts not one. Besides it's too late for us to try going any farther. Let's see what kind of minshuku or cheap ryokan it has.”

Be-Beep!

I drove us back through the town. I spied a few minshuku off the main drag that was chock-full of seafood restaurants. “And the storefronts here aren't gray from salt spray.”

I decided to try a minshuku that was just off what seemed to be the middle of the town's main drag. The Okusan proprietress seemed friendly enough, the room, though a small three mat, was reasonably clean and the price for no meals sudomari even more reasonable.

By the time I had taken my ofuro in their rather small bath, it was getting close to six o'clock. The Okusan recommended a nearby restaurant on the main road and assured me it had excellent steamed suzuki.

Again a rather long U shaped counter and a few tables along the side. The steamed suzuki was delicious as usual. And with no damn group of yakking away businessmen to bother me, I really enjoyed it. But after I finished I suddenly felt exhausted from all the putting we'd done that day. I decided to just go back to my room and check my maps and guidebook for tomorrow's drive.

"It's a good thing the Okusan let me stay another night, little buddy. I checked my maps and there are almost no towns from Tosa-shimizu on west for any distance we could have made by yesterday evening. Looks like we lucked out again, little buddy.”

Be-Beep!

"But we're really going to have to hustle our asses tomorrow. It's a long way from here to Matsuyama. Thank God that car ferry back to Kobe doesn't leave until ten tomorrow night.”

Beeep!

was right about this stretch of Route 321 west to Misakiura and beyond, though. It's a lot better than anything we've seen since Muroto-misaki. And we can take our time today. It feels a lot nicer without all that luggage strapped to you, right little buddy?”

Be-Beep!"It's not going to be as nice tomorrow though. Let's enjoy it while we can.”

Be-Beep!

I drove us leisurely along the road that seemed to hug the coastline, stopping here and there to snap some pictures and even walk along the beach a bit.

"These gray sand and rocky beaches are nowhere near as pretty as the white sandy beaches along Lake Michigan. But they'll do for today.”

Be-Beep!

I checked my watch. “Hmm, it's almost two. Better start heading back. I want to eat dinner as soon as that restaurant opens at five and turn in real early to get plenty of sleep for the drive on to Matsuyama.”

Beeep!

As we reentered Tosa-shimizu, I saw a gas station “Better get you filled up, little buddy! I want us to make it all the way to Matsuyama on one tankful, if we can.”

Be-Beep!