Fortunes and Misfortunes of an American in Bulgaria

January 27

The alarm clock is knocking on my head shouting “ Get up! It’s 8:48 am!”

I still have time to get to my 9 o’clock class. I’m surprised to have any clear thoughts in my mind considering the fact I went to bed at … an hour and a half ago maybe?

Why do AUBGers go to clubs by the time when we Americans put an end to the party and go to bed. Another Balkan mystery.

lll

Dressed up and ready for a minute I am heading to my

9 o’clock history class.

I walk outside Skapto wearing my usual flats and I feel like I’m not fitting the scenery. I wonder why? Maybe because of the weird looks everyone is giving me? Yes, I can’t deny -- it’s cold.

However, I invite you in New Hampshire so you can see what real winter is. I do like attention but this is a little too much. It’s clear I need boots.

Is it just my imagination or those two girls were laughing at me. As I said I need boots. I need them now.

lll

I’m already in class and the lights are off me, fortunately. At some point I get bored so I start looking around. I wonder if I’m still in class or I accidentally happened to be in a night club. How is it possible that everyone look so good – with makeup and everything – at this unholy hour in the morning?

“Bartender, give me a beer please, I’m thirsty.”

lll

Have you ever felt like Gulliver? I feel like a real Gulliver each time I enter a shoe store. Come on, I’m 1.75 m high. I am not a giant. It seems there are no decent boots for me in the area of Blagoevgrad. I guess, I’m sticking to the flats. Do not judge me, AUBGers because I tried.

lll

Very disappointed I go along the main street and see that girl from my history class. Guess what I did. What a break-ruler I am.

I smiled at her.

For my smile I get a confused, stoned look. And I thought one can’t express those two emotions simultaneously on his face.

She feels awkward. I feel awkward. To sum up, an awkward situation.

No, wait. Why should I feel awkward? I lent her a pen today. Is it that hard to exercise you facial muscles for a change?

Oh, I forgot. Europeans aren’t fake.

lll

At least I found a fancy jacket. Shopping therapy does work. I’ve got an official announcement to make now:

“Dear NorthFace,

I’m leaving you to have rest in the wardrobe for the next 3 months.

P.S.

I already miss you.”

Going back to Skapto starving, I eagerly open the refrigerator but my food has rotten. Dammit. It seems I am eating real food for a while.

lll

“Brbrbrbr… accounting… brdzhgt…midterm.bzhgrts” At least my Bulgarian roommates are not talking about me. I very often have the feeling I’ve done something wrong they are blaming me for because their speech sounds so angry sometimes. Many times to be precise.

“A guilty conscience is a self-accuser, Judith.”

I forgot to introduce myself. I am Judith. Nice meeting you.

lll

It’s 10 pm. I totally agree with Cyndi Lauper that “Girls Just Want to Have Fun.” Guess what I’m singing tonight at

Piano Bar.

At some point in the night I’m in Underground and I see again this girl from my history class. I’m calling her the History girl from now on for short.

It seems she is approaching me. “No, Judith. You dare not even give her a glimpse.”

“Hey Judith!” followed by a hard bear embrace which almost took my breath away. But that’s her!? The History girl and she even knows my name.

Next thing I know is I’m in Milena pub. Strange music, strange place. I like it. A line of people are holding their hands… dancing? Sure, I’ll join them.

lll

A few hours later we’re done partying for tonight. It’s secret-banitsa-shop time.

I haven’t even gulped my first bite when I feel something wet touching my leg. I know what it is. I guess I am getting used to the Bulgarian squirrels – the stray dogs on you attention, ladies and gentlemen. I give my favorite one a bite. And then again. Well, this time I was lucky to eat somewhat like half of my banitsa. But hey. We got a safe escort with no thefts and drunks right to Skapto for just half a banitsa. This is what I call a bargain.

lll

There are times when I love Bulgaria. Actually I like it most of the time.

Time to go to bed. What a day it was. And this is my second week here. I wonder what else is ahead of me…

lll

May 7

Well, AUBG, it’s time for me to take off.

I can’t believe AUBG will be in my past in a few short hours. No more Bulgarian speech, no more stray dogs, no banitsa, no more chatty Bulgarian roommates. No nothing. Only memories.

lll

My stream of thoughts is disrupted by someone who grabs me taking my breath away. Sounds familiar, isn’t it? Yes, it’s the history class girl. I think, I should attribute her since she’s a main character in my AUBG story. The history class girl is called Yana.

Strangely, we became very good friends by the end of the semester. I keep wondering how this tiny girl is able to lift me here and there as if I were a feather. Balkans.

She is visiting me in Londonderry, New Hampshire, by the way, in late August after she’s done with her Work & Travel program.

lll

One last look at Skapto, a sigh and a goodbye.

“Farewell, AUBG.”

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1-- AUBG is an abbreviation standing for the American University in Bulgaria (AUBG). Students from AUBG call themselves AUBGers.

2-- Skapto is short for Skaptopara which is the name of the dorms of the American University in Bulgaria.

3 -- Banitsa is a traditional Bulgarian food prepared by a mixture of whisked eggs, pieces of white cheese between filo pastry and then baking it in an oven

4 -- Work & Travel program is a program which is designated to students mainly from Eastern Erope who go the Unites States of America to work and travel, and get to now better the American culture.